Our first Sicilian running group

October 27, 2024 by Paquale Mangione

FAQs, Costa Brava, Running Holidays

I'm Pasquale Mangione, with Pablo, leader of our Sicilian running adventure, let me tell you the story from my perspective

Day 1 - Thunder and Lightning

Even before the alarm goes off, my ears catch a sound I don’t want to hear: it’s raining. It’s 6:30 in the morning, and at 8:00 we have a boat booked for the island of Marettimo. I’ve been planning this day for months, and it hasn’t rained in Sicily for months—drought has gripped the island more harshly than usual. Yet, the unmistakable sound of heavy rain is clear. I wake up Pablo; we need to decide what to do. As we run through the rain to the port’s ticket office, my mind is split in two: one part wants to try anyway, hoping the weather will improve, the other knows it wouldn’t be safe. When we reach the dock, lightning on the horizon settles the matter. It would be a risk; the run on Marettimo has to be canceled. At the boarding area, only the on-duty doctor and a single disappointed tourist wait.

We return to the hotel, drenched and a little demoralized. When I planned this trip, I chose Marettimo for the first day to immediately immerse participants in the essence of Sicily: the simplicity of the people, the wild beauty of the places, and the delicious food and wine. At this moment, any Plan B feels like a poor substitute. But then again, we’re in a land where people have seen so much hardship that they’ve learned to say “Futtitinni!”—which colorfully means “Take it easy!” We don’t give up, and as the rain shows signs of letting up, we use the morning to explore Trapani’s historic center with an 8 km run along the waterfront. We visit the Colombaia Watchtower and the Ligny Tower, the ancient walls, churches, historic buildings, gardens, and the Clock Tower, ending our run at a typical local shop where we’re served freshly made arancini and potato croquettes.

After lunch, the weather doesn’t seem to improve much, so we opt for a delightful gastronomic tour in the town of Fulgatore, where we taste one of the best ricotta cannoli in the area. We then continue to the important archaeological site of Segesta, where we can admire the grandeur of a full Doric temple and the beauty of a perfectly preserved Greek theater. As the sun sets, we slowly head back to the hotel, with the sky painted in shades of red, orange, and violet, gradually clearing of clouds. We close the day with a seafood dinner and white wine from the native Grillo grape at an excellent restaurant, wishing us good luck for the following day.

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Runners love food

Day 2 - Erice and the Sea

Today the sky looks much more promising, and we wake up relieved and excited for the beautiful day ahead. A hearty Italian breakfast of cappuccino, croissants, bread, butter, jam, fruit, and even a ham sandwich gives us the fuel we need for a long day of running, which includes a solid mountain climb. The morning in Trapani is fresh, with golden light filtering through the streets of the historic center, and the air carries the scent of salt from the sea. We run along the main avenue, passing through Prefecture Square with its centuries-old coral trees, and then along the tree-lined Via Fardella, which cuts through the city. At the end of the road stands our destination, unmistakable and towering—Monte Erice, at 751 meters, overlooking the city and serving as our guiding landmark. Once inhabited by the Elymians, a people of Trojan origin, the mountain was later occupied by Carthaginians and Romans, who built a temple to Venus Erycina where the Norman castle now stands.

Reaching the ancient village of Erice on foot is a special feeling. The group surprises us, as in just over an hour, we are all gathered at the city gates. I join the group led by Pablo and Dris, and together we run through the ancient streets of this enchanted village, perched on the mountain long before the arrival of the Romans. Narrow cobblestone streets, stone houses with courtyards and gardens, churches, walls, the large Town Hall square, the villa, and the imposing Norman Castle overlooking the Agro-Ericino countryside—the sea on the horizon, Trapani, the salt flats, the Egadi Islands, and magically, the Gulf of Bonagia, framed by one of the most beautiful and iconic mountains I’ve ever seen, Monte Cofano—what a unique spectacle! We can’t resist taking a break in one of the town’s historic pastry shops, where we try some of the typical sweets of the Trapani area that will accompany us throughout the trip: lemon cream genovesi, ricotta cassatelle, almond paste cookies, and much more. After all, sweets are an integral part of Sicilian culture, telling its history and cultural influences.

After a perfect espresso, we head to the other side of the mountain, where our unique accommodation awaits. A quick single-track trail through a forest of Mediterranean scrub and Aleppo pines takes us to the village's base, where we follow the remnants of an ancient Roman road leading to the coast. A beautiful coastal track passes by a Pantelleria donkey farm and leads us along a section of the Sentiero Italia trail to Bonagia, a small fishing village with a marina and an old tuna fishery. Once abandoned, the fishery has been transformed into a stunning seaside resort.

Our friends at the port bar welcome us to their terrace with a rich seafood platter, including fish salami, busiate pasta with Trapani pesto, and fresh white wine. The sea breeze does the rest as we settle into the resort and plan to meet by the pool for a sunset aperitif with Spritz. The peace and colors of the evening embrace us, while relaxed and satisfied smiles appear on the faces of our travel companions. Sicily is already winning them over, and we never doubted it.

But now, it's time for dinner. In Sicily, meals are not just about eating but also about being together. The excellent food is just an excuse to spend time with family or friends, to talk, laugh, joke, and enjoy the company of loved ones. So, here’s to another toast, all for us and the wonderful time we are sharing together, like ancient travelers discovering the Mediterranean.

Runners love food

Day 3 - It's Not the Destination, But the Journey

For those who haven’t seen it, the Gulf of Bonagia is a large bay framed by two great mountains pointing toward the sea like the prow of a ship: Monte Erice to the southwest and Monte Cofano to the northeast. The coastline alternates between small beaches and rocky stretches, with crystal-clear blue water. The low cliffs are dark, the soil is red with iron-rich minerals, and the contrast of colors is warm and intense. I love this stretch of coast. Starting from Bonagia, we head toward Monte Cofano, passing by abandoned carpentry workshops, crumbling tuff stone warehouses eroded by wind and with collapsed roofs. Then, long stretches of wild coast alternate with small clusters of houses until we reach Cornino, a delightful vacation spot not yet overrun by mass tourism.

Climbing up the town, we stop at the Mangiapane Caves, large orange and yellow limestone caves where you can visit a well-preserved agro-pastoral village thanks to the efforts of a local cultural association. The view from here is spectacular. We run to the foothills of Monte Cofano and follow its red-earth trails around its base. The weather is changing, and we encounter almost no one on the path. Around us, there is only rock, sea, and sky. The trail is partly technical, partly smooth, and runs through a majestic setting where nature reigns supreme. When we reach the Cofano Tonnara (tuna fishery), the view opens up to a new landscape, another stunning bay surrounded by an amphitheater of rocky mountains: Santa Margherita Bay, a breathtaking and unique spot. We can see the wonder in the eyes of the group, so we take a moment to admire this wild beauty. Unfortunately, the gray sky and a few lightning bolts on the horizon urge us to move on quickly.

The van, as scheduled, awaits us at the designated spot, and it’s a true lifesaver as the light rain that accompanied us in the last part of the run has become heavier. We all jump into the van and decide to get something warm to drink at a small wooden bar we spot in the middle of the bay. Unfortunately, the rain turns into a full-blown storm, and the kiosk is too small to accommodate us all, so we choose to move on and look for another bar in the nearest town. Despite the adverse weather, we are amused by the situation, laughing and joking about the warm espresso we anticipate.

Then, the unexpected happens—the wet sand has turned into a quagmire, and the van’s wheels slip and get completely stuck in the mud. We quickly jump out of the van and start digging around the sunken wheels, first with our hands and then with wooden planks we find on the beach. The group is fantastic, with everyone pitching in, and instead of complaining, they motivate each other. We try pushing, but the van remains stuck. Suddenly, I remember a 4X4 camper truck we saw at the beginning of the bay, so I run under the pouring rain to ask for help. Two kind Swiss women, used to helping stuck vehicles, smile at me from the truck window and invite me to wait by the van. We borrow a sturdy rope from the guys at the small bar, and once the rope is attached to the truck, we’re free in no time! What a sight—thank you, Brigitte, you saved us!

Finally, we set off again in search of a bar, which we find at a campsite overlooking the bay, surrounded by prickly pear plants and climbing walls. The storm has passed, and the sun returns to warm and dry us. A toast, a few sandwiches, and we’re ready to continue our run. We climb the cliff through a passage between two walls and then enter a vast plateau of pastures from where we can admire much of the route we’ve covered so far. Just beyond, another imposing mountain appears—Monte Monaco—marking our arrival at the beautiful town of San Vito Lo Capo, a charming village of small white houses set on one of the most beautiful and clean beaches in the Mediterranean. What an adventure today: a 28 km run, a storm, a rescue, and an arrival in paradise! Tired and satisfied, we reach our rooms and prepare for the traditional dinner awaiting us on the elegant terrace of the restaurant, where we enjoy a wonderful sunset overlooking the sea.

Runners love food

Day 4 - Lo Zingaro

Waking up in San Vito is pure relaxation, and today’s weather is perfect. We are all ready to tackle one of the most beautiful runs, a technical trail in the Zingaro Nature Reserve that will take us from the mountaintop down to the sea. Let’s go! After a half-hour climb to Passo del Lupo, we’re just warmed up enough to run along the single tracks of the reserve. We run along the hillside on short ups and downs, with the sea dominating the horizon once again. We are in the wildest part of the coast between Trapani and Palermo, with steep mountains plunging dramatically into the sea, far from inhabited areas. We encounter no one, except for a few wild horses grazing. A light sea breeze accompanies us until we reach Borgo Cusenza, a cluster of small stone houses that once formed a village of farmers and shepherds up until the mid-1900s. We catch our breath and fill our bottles at the spring, but we quickly move on, eager to reach the beautiful coves appearing lower down.

The terrain is technical, and you have to stay focused, paying attention to every step, keeping a good rhythm and quick reflexes to dodge rocks and small rises of stone—but it’s pure fun! A long zigzag descent takes us past more small houses, now museums dedicated to the crafts and trades of the past. We feel like kids in a playground! Running with this breathtaking scenery before our eyes is an immense and joyous gift. Everything flows smoothly, and soon enough, we’re just steps from the sea. We start encountering tourists on the lower trails of the reserve, heading to the coves, and finally, after about 14 km and plenty of downhill elevation, we arrive at one of the most beautiful coves. A Caribbean-like beach is at our feet, with white sand and crystal-clear water—it’s a dream! Off with the shoes, off with the shirts, and splash! A dip in this magnificent natural pool is the best reward we could ask for.

We take our time enjoying the swim and sun, sipping on cold beers brought by our guide, Dris, before heading back up the trail to meet the van. From there, a very scenic road leads us back to our hotel on the waterfront of San Vito Lo Capo, just in time for the annual Couscous Festival celebrations.

Runners love food

Day 5 - A Change of Scene

Today, we wake up at dawn, but for a good reason: a complete change of scenery! Sicily is a vast and complex island, both culturally and geographically, and our goal when planning this trip was to showcase its unique features. We head out to the Madonie Park, a UNESCO geo-site where we will discover alpine landscapes just steps from the sea, plateaus and clearings alternating with maple and oak forests, and beech and fir woodlands—a pristine and enchanting natural setting, crisscrossed by ancient pastoral roads perfect for running.

From Portella Colla, we ascend a forest road through the woods until we reach the Piano Cervi plateau, where we encounter numerous deer grazing. We are at an altitude of around 1,500 meters, and the temperature is fresh and pleasant. We gently continue uphill through the beech forest and reach an old hay barn once used by shepherds. We keep running through clearings and fir woods until we reach a panoramic point where we catch a glimpse of the coast and some rocky ridges with typical Apennine morphology. After a brief break and some photos, we start running downhill toward the Giumenta forest refuge, a small wooden gem in the heart of this alpine clearing, surrounded by woods. Crossing the clearing, the descent becomes steeper and more scenic, with views stretching toward the highest mountains of the group—Monte Carbonara and Monte la Mùfara. The incline makes us pick up speed, and we find ourselves running down the steep switchbacks like children, laughing, shouting, and joking, alternating bursts of running with short breaks to catch our breath and admire the landscape.

The Madonie Mountains are the natural extension of the Apennine mountain chain that runs through Italy and continues into Sicily with its stunning unspoiled landscapes, dominated by limestone mountains, karst-glacial plateaus, and vast beech forests. We are in the heart of the Mediterranean, but in an environment far removed from the typical island imagery. We gently continue our descent through the woods, with glimpses of the sea once again in view. The trail is very smooth, and the terrain is soft and flowing—a true pleasure to run. After more enjoyable kilometers, we reach Piano Zucchi, an old vacation area and our midday stop. From here, an excellent lunch of pizza and local products awaits us at the entrance to the town of Isnello, an architectural gem nestled at the foot of a majestic mountain. Afterward, as a pleasant surprise, we reach the splendid resort in Gratteri, another of Italy’s most beautiful villages, where we will stay the night, pampered by the cuisine of a renowned local chef, who will serve traditional dishes paired with excellent local wines. Once again, tired and satisfied, we can enjoy a well-deserved rest in the peaceful silence of this beautiful village.

Runners love food